FFWD: Short Ribs in Red Wine and Port

February 25, 2011March 6, 2011 ~ Teresa ~ 30 Comments

I’ve always preferred leaner cuts of meat. When I was growing up, my family used to fight over who got to eat the chicken skin from my plate. None of them understood why I eschewed what they considered one of the best parts of roasted or fried chicken. I’d also carefully cut the fat from steak and pork chops and when I was confronted with ribs or pork roast, I stuck mostly to the vegetables on my plate. Later, one of my friends in University used to love sitting next to me at dinner, as she’d pull the pieces of fat from my plate and happily eat them.

I’ve gotten only a little more tolerant of the fattier portions of meat as I’ve gotten older, but I’ve never really become a fan. So, I was a little worried that I wouldn’t like this week’s French Fridays recipe. It uses short ribs, which are famous for their richly marbled fat. A selling point for most, I know.

What’s brilliant about the method used in this recipe is that the meat rests overnight in the fridge, allowing you to easily skim off the fat before its final broil. The meat is first broiled before it’s braised and the broth it’s braised in is rich in exactly the way I like, fortified with beef stock, vegetables, port and wine. Then, the next day, the meat is tossed in some of the broth and broiled again. When it comes to the table, it benefits from the best of both techniques, the meat almost falling off the bone with the slightly smoky flavour of broiled bones. The braising liquid is strained and then used as a sauce, which is well worth sopping up with bread. Neither the meat or the sauce have the fattiness of barbequed ribs and the wine sauce is a nice change from the sharpness of the sauces usually used for ribs.

I halved the recipe and skipped the gremolata, serving it instead with boiled potatoes and steamed swiss chard. If I make a full recipe, for a crowd, I’ll definitely use the gremolata. Since it was just the two of us, I didn’t bother. The broth had enough flavour to make the meal interesting. The next day, I shredded some of the leftovers and warmed them with a little broth. Then, I toasted some spinach and onion Quejos and made open faced sandwiches. With a little salad on the side, I think I liked the short ribs even better than I did the first night.

I’m still not going to make ribs very often, but I think I’ll use this braising liquid with leaner cuts of beef – the port and syrah I used, along with the vegetables and herbs, make a wonderful broth.

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Short Ribs in Red Wine and Port

FFWD – Pancetta Green Beans

February 18, 2011February 19, 2011 ~ Teresa ~ 16 Comments

Every neighbourhood has its treasures. After living somewhere for a while, you start to realize that what you thought of as personal discoveries are often really open secrets. My neighbourhood has more than its share. Lombardo’s may be in a mini-mall, but people come from all over for its pizza and pasta. (They also quote Virginia Woolf in the header of their web page, which gives them extra points, I think.) Fratelli’s Saint Honoré is often called the East Van Birthday Cake. And everyone braves the dreaded line up at Santa Barbara Market for deals on cheeses, deli meats and olive oil. Though La Grotta Del Formaggio and Les Amis du Fromage are fancier and have more selection, you can get good quality cheaply at Santa Barbara.

Luckily, there were only four people ahead of me in line when I went there to pick up pancetta for this week’s French Friday recipe. As a bonus, the green beans at Santa Barbara were nice, so I picked those up there, too. Green beans are a staple at our house, but we usually prepare them quite simply – steamed with a squeeze of lemon, or with a dusting of herbs and a little butter. A delicious rut, but a rut nevertheless.

Enter Pancetta Green Beans. It’s a quick side dish – blanched beans are added to well-cooked chopped pancetta and finished with a drizzle of walnut oil. We had it with baked sage butter halibut and the two dishes contrasted nicely. When I finally get a small chest freezer, this would be a great recipe to use up all those green beans I’m going to blanch and freeze when they’re in season.

I have to admit, though, that I’m not a huge fan of pancetta. I agree that a sliver or two can add some punch to a meal, but any more than that is far too salty for me. Perhaps if I’d made my own, like these folks, I’d feel differently. As it is, I think next time I make this dish, I’ll use a quarter of the amount of pancetta called for in the recipe.

I am inspired to experiment a little more with green beans. One cannot live by steamed beans alone. I think I’ll start with this.

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Pancetta Green Beans

FFWD – Orange-Almond Tart

February 11, 2011February 18, 2011 ~ Teresa ~ 14 Comments

Just a quick post today, as it’s been a busy week.

Gluten-free baking can be a little tricky, especially when converting standard flour recipes. In converting the recipe for the sweet tart dough for the Orange-Almond Tart, I chose to use an all purpose mix made of white rice flour, potato starch and tapioca flour. It’s one that they sell at my local food co-operative and I’ve had really good results with it. In this recipe, though, the dough was ultimately too crumbly, with a slightly sandy taste that detracted a little from the shortbread flavour the dough is meant to have. Next time I try this, I’ll use a different combination of flours – one that doesn’t rely so heavily on white rice flour. (For the record, I’ve made this sweet tart dough recipe as written, with conventional flour, and it turned out beautifully. The problem was my choice of flours, not a fault in the recipe. I think I should have used a touch more xantham gum, too.)

My intention was to make a tangerine version of this tart, but sectioning the tangerines did not go well. The fruit was quite soft and my knife was not quite sharp enough. In the end, I sectioned some nice, firm oranges instead, which worked out quite well.

The almond cream turned out beautifully and the same gluten-free flour mix that failed in the pastry worked really well for the filling.

The finished product was tasty, if crumbly and with a few inexplicably over-browned oranges. The oranges also were a little swallowed by the almond cream, I think because my pan was smaller than called for. I’ll make this again, once I’ve sorted out a gluten-free version of the tart dough that works well. I hope that the next time I make this, too, that the finished product looks a little prettier. Check out the other French Friday participants if you want to see more attractive versions!

UPDATE – February 18/11 – I sent a big slice home with my parents, the day after I made it. I apologized in advance because I didn’t think they’d like my version of the crust much. Turns out, though, that they loved it. My mother phoned back to tell me so. I tried another piece and was really pleased. Refrigerated overnight, the crust had improved immensely. It was no longer crumbly and was very flavourful. The filling was still just as good as it had been the first day. When I make this again, I’ll make it ahead.

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Orange-Almond Tart

FFWD – Basque Potato Tortilla

February 4, 2011March 4, 2011 ~ Teresa ~ 21 Comments

February is a busy month for us this year, in no small part because it’s my partner’s 40th birthday next week. We’ve got a big party lined up for the weekend at one of our favourite gluten-free-friendly restaurants, but for his actual birthday I’m making a rice pasta spinach lasagna. I’m also going to attempt a gluten-free version of next week’s FFwD recipe, Orange-Almond Tart. So, I was happy the month was starting off with a relatively easy dish. One which is naturally gluten-free, to boot. No substitutions needed.

Basque Potato Tortilla is more akin to what North Americans would describe as an omelette than what we think of as a tortilla. It’s started on the stove and finished under the broiler, requiring a close eye, but little intervention. I resisted the urge to add cheese (it’s good to break the habit of always cooking eggs with dairy), but added mushrooms, red pepper, thyme and ham to the base recipe.

Tonight, we ate slices at room temperature with lemon-dressed steamed Swiss Chard on the side. I’m curious to taste it cold tomorrow. I certainly see the appeal of slicing it into cubes or squares and serving it as an appetizer – it would go well with a red pepper salsa, I think. Though I enjoyed the tortilla, I don’t think it will be making a regular appearance in our kitchen. I’m keeping it in mind for those times when you need a simple, visually impressive main or appetizer, though, especially because it uses ingredients you’re likely to have on hand.

It’s also one of those dishes that’s infinitely variable. The Swiss Chard could have just as easily gone into the tortilla as on the side. It’s good to have a few variations on workhorse egg recipes in hand.

Thanks, Kevin, for the loan of your camera – the batteries in mine died today. Apologies to everyone for the darkness of this week’s shots. I’m not as handy with his camera.

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Basque Potato Tortilla

FFWD – Chicken B’stilla

February 3, 2011 ~ Teresa ~ 17 Comments

Slow is underrated, especially when it comes to food. I don’t just mean this kind of slow, though that’s definitely important. I’m talking about taking time with a dish, letting flavours meld and working through the steps to make something truly delicious. We’re so inundated with recipes for 30 minute, 15 minute and even 10 minute meals, that it’s hard to remember that setting aside time for cooking can have enormous rewards. Obviously, in our culture, few of us have the ability to put long hours into every dish that we make, so it’s important that when you do, the recipe is worth it. Dorie Greenspan’s recipe for Chicken B’stilla is a wonderful example of what happens when you put time into making your food.

In this French take on a traditional Moroccan dish, chicken is marinated in spices, then simmered in broth until very tender. The broth is cooked down into a rich sauce, made even richer by adding eggs and honey. Finally, everything is combined, put into a phyllo pastry crust and baked. Since my partner would be eating this with me, I substituted gluten-free rough puff pastry for the phyllo, using Gluten-Free Girl’s recipe (which you can find here). I’d researched gluten-free phyllo pastry, but didn’t find a recipe I trusted. I need to do a little more exploration and some test batches, I suppose. I recommend this puff pastry recipe wholeheartedly – it comes together like magic, though you’ll likely have sore biceps the next day.

Even though you must take a little time to make this dish, none of the steps are particularly difficult. The most difficult part of this recipe is resisting the aroma of the food at the various stages of cooking. While the shredded chicken was cooling, my dog sat in front of the stove, hoping for a handout. My partner repeatedly came in asking if he could have some. I was busy with the sauce, but adding the honey and eggs just added to the wonderful smell. Anticipation ran high.

Once the B’stilla was assembled and baked, it was difficult to wait for it to cool enough to cut. It was worth the work and the wait. Kevin rarely enjoys pie, savoury or sweet, but even before we were finished our first serving, he asked when I would be making it again. I’ll be making this often for Kevin, but I think I’ll also go over to my parents’ place and make the conventional phyllo version for them, too. Not that I’m looking for excuses to make this again…

And, speaking of slow, this was actually the January 28th recipe for French Fridays with Dorie. Instead of writing this post on Friday as I’d planned, I went to a hockey game with my mother instead. I’ve finally found time to catch up today.

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Chicken B’stilla

FFWD – Michel Rostang’s Double Chocolate Mousse Cake

January 21, 2011May 4, 2014 ~ Teresa ~ 25 Comments

Almost five months after buying Around My French Table, there’s still a little bit of the scent of new book about it, but that’s fading fast. It’s now starting to look like some of the most-used cookbooks in my collection. One page has a drop of braising liquid and on another there’s a tiny stain from Valrhona chocolate. I’m sure that there’s also some gluten-free flour mix dusted throughout. At least I don’t dog-ear the pages (shudder).

Ultimately, I think those stains are the markers of a successful cookbook. Though I try to keep my cookbooks safe from my culinary adventures, I inevitably put a chocolately finger on the page or spatter some too enthusiastically stirred broth over the book. I’ve a few that are still pristine; those are likely to end up in a box at a yard sale someday. Those that I enjoy most are no longer so pretty.

It’s safe to say that I’m enjoying cooking from Around My French Table. Learning from Dorie Greenspan and from each other, the group has made some delicious dishes so far. This week’s recipe has inspired me to do a little learning beyond the AMFT classroom. Since the double chocolate mousse cake almost cries out for ice cream, I pulled out my (brand new) copy of David Lebovitz’ Ready for Dessert and looked for a suitable match. I don’t have an ice cream freezer, but that wasn’t too much of a barrier. I used his frozen caramel mousse recipe, along with salted almonds (both of which are meant to be served with sherry-glazed pears and chocolate, but those will have to wait for another time).

The cake itself is mostly a matter of stirring. Once the chocolate is melted, the rest of the ingredients are incorporated bit by bit, save for the egg whites, which are folded in at the end. The most time-consuming part of the process for me was walking down the block to the corner coffee shop, Bump N Grind, to pick up the espresso. I don’t usually drink coffee at home (I’m a mildly obsessive tea drinker) and my neighbourhood is known for very good espresso, so there’s little reason for me to keep coffee on hand. I used to have a fantastic chocolate cake recipe (which I’ve sadly lost) that used a long Americano. I lived closer to Continental Coffee then and entertained enough that they knew exactly what I was up to when I came in. It brought back memories when I walked into the shop yesterday and asked for a third of a cup of espresso.

I chose to bake the cake twice and serve it cold, which is Dorie’s favourite version. You can also bake it once and serve it with chilled chocolate mousse on top or bake it twice and serve it warm. I think there’s some experimentation called for, to make sure I identify my favourite version of this cake. I don’t think I’ll manage it all at once, though.

What I can tell you is that the cake is dense and delicious, reminiscent of a brownie, but much more sophisticated. The hint of espresso works really well with the bittersweet chocolate. Adding caramel mousse and salted almonds? Amazing.

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Michel Rostang’s Double Chocolate Mousse Cake

FFWD – Gnocchi à la Parisienne

January 17, 2011January 18, 2011 ~ Teresa ~ 10 Comments

Though I’ve eaten traditional gnocchi many times, I’ve only made it once. My sister and I were invited to make it with a family friend and her daughter. Over the course of a morning, we made enough for about fifteen meals, which we divided amongst our households. I remember it was a very tactile process, with flour covering a wide countertop and our hands pulling at the dough, rolling and shaping it and then pressing each gnocco with the back of a fork. A tomato sauce simmered on the stove while we worked, ready for the gnocchi we set aside to cook for our lunch. It was, of course, worth all the effort.

Considerably less effort was needed to make this week’s recipe, Gnocchi à la Parisienne. Since it’s made of pâte à choux instead of potato-based dough, a stand mixer takes most of the work out of making this dish. Shaping the gnocchi also took very little time, as they’re dropped by the teaspoonful. I chose to freeze most of mine and let the balance of the dough rest while I made the béchamel sauce.

I halved the béchamel, which came together quickly, though it was thicker than other recipes I’ve made. It was easy enough to spread in the baking dish and over the cooked gnocchi and I think its thickness was an asset once it was baked. I used a mixture of Gruyère and Parmesan on top.

My first bites were dominated by the flavour of the cheeses. But as I ate my way through the dish, the nutmeg started to assert itself, along with the very tender texture of the gnocchi and the creaminess of the béchamel. The cheeses began to complement the other flavours and textures, rather than overwhelm them. I enjoyed it, though I’m not sure it was enough for me to want to make this again. It is making me want to try making potato gnocchi again, just for comparison. Maybe I’ll organize another work party.

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Gnocchi à la Parisienne

FFWD – Paris Mushroom Soup

January 7, 2011May 4, 2014 ~ Teresa ~ 23 Comments

When I was young, my father used to call me an unnatural child because I didn’t like mushrooms. He’d been raised on a mushroom farm and took my distaste for them a little personally. I’ve made my peace with mushrooms over the years, but I still don’t seek them out. (Unless it’s Chicken of the Woods. If you have that, I’m coming to your house right now. Save me some.)

It’s World War II that made me the daughter of the son of a mushroom farmer. My grandfather was a veteran of that war and after he returned to Canada, he became a graphic artist. After a while, the company he worked for wanted to transfer him to the United States. But he had three sons and didn’t want them to be subject to U.S. draft laws. So, he gave up the job and started a mushroom farm instead.

I remember the mushroom barns. They were huge buildings, which we only entered under supervision. The button mushrooms glowed a little in the dim light and the smell of mushroom manure was surprisingly sweet. We would sometimes play hide-and-seek around the outside of the buildings, but mostly we played in the woods on the other side of the property. It’s a residential subdivision now.

So, although I didn’t eat mushrooms for many years, I had a soft spot for them. I’m also developing a soft spot for Paris Mushroom Soup. My mushroom-loving partner enjoyed it, as expected, but I really liked it, too. The soup starts with a reduction of white wine and the juices of the mushrooms. It ends with the addition of a “salad” of raw mushrooms and herbs, and a dollop of crème fraiche to finish it. Though I wouldn’t have made it without the prompting of the French Fridays With Dorie schedule, I’m glad I did.

UPDATE: Here’s what I did with the leftovers: Tuna Rice Casserole

You can find many other blogged descriptions of this week’s FFWD recipe here: Paris Mushroom Soup

FFWD – My Go-to Beef Daube (and a Happy New Year)

December 31, 2010January 1, 2011 ~ Teresa ~ 14 Comments

As I’m typing this, the beef daube is braising in the oven and I’m preparing peppermint patties and vegan truffles for a potluck we’re going to tonight. We’re ringing in the new year by meditating with my partner’s Buddhist sangha, D.I.Y. Dharma.

For me, it’s been a year of change, commitment and renewed creativity. It’s also been a year of profound losses.

My intentions for 2011 include solidifying my life’s path, while really seeing and valuing the people in my life. I hope 2011 brings you a full share of joy with your life’s challenges.

I’ll leave you with a few photos of the Beef Daube, since this is French Friday, after all. I’ll let you know how we liked it in the comments, tomorrow.

Happy New Year!

We’re doing things a little differently again for the month of December. We’re still posting weekly, but people are free to post this month’s recipes in any order. You can find many other blogged descriptions of this month’s FFWD recipes here: LYL: December 31

FFWD – Leek and Potato Soup

December 24, 2010 ~ Teresa ~ 12 Comments

It’s been cold, blustery and wet for the most part lately, so it’s fitting that this week’s post features a warm and comforting soup. It’s also a versatile soup – the full title of this recipe is Leek and Potato Soup, Smooth or Chunky, Hot or Cold. Dorie gives a number of suggestions for variations and this soup could easily act as a base for many more. I chose to try one of the variations and added a handful of shredded spinach to mine near the end of the cooking time. Then, I partially pureed the soup and served it hot.

As with many of Dorie’s recipes, this soup was delicious and impressive without being time-consuming or difficult. I was able to get quite a bit of my Christmas baking done while the soup cooked slowly on the stove. I’m looking forward to the leftovers tonight.

I’ll keep this post short today, so we can all get back to baking. A very merry Christmas to those of you who celebrate it and I’ll see you again on Tuesday.